Food & wine

Portuguese food and wine: what to try (and where) — from custard tarts to port

Cod a thousand ways, fresh seafood, the perfect custard tart, and wines that surprise the world. A practical guide to Portugal's flavours and the right places to taste them.

Editorial illustration of a custard tart, a glass of wine and a sardine

Eating is one of the best reasons to visit Portugal. The cuisine is honest, generous and deeply tied to the sea and the land — built on simple ingredients and centuries of tradition. This guide gathers what to try without fail and where to find the best of each flavour.

The custard tart: start with the sweet

Portugal's sweet icon: crisp flaky pastry, velvety egg cream and a hint of cinnamon. The original is the Pastel de Belém, made to a secret convent recipe since 1837, but you'll find excellent versions in any good pastry shop. Eat it warm, with a coffee — a bica.

Cod: the faithful friend

They say there's a cod recipe for every day of the year. Try Bacalhau à Brás (shredded with straw potatoes and egg), Bacalhau com Natas (with cream), or Bacalhau à Lagareiro, roasted with generous olive oil. It's the symbolic dish of Christmas and the festive table.

Seafood and fresh fish

With its coastline, Portugal is a seafood paradise. At a marisqueira, try clams Bulhão Pato-style, crab, prawns and percebes (goose barnacles). On the coast, grilled sardines in summer are a must, as is seaside grilled fish. The Setúbal and Arrábida area is famous for fresh fish and fried cuttlefish — a great pairing with a beach day. See our Arrábida tour.

In Portugal a good meal is rarely expensive. The secret is to leave the touristy streets and find the tavern where the locals have lunch.

Comfort dishes you can't miss

  • Cozido à portuguesa — the national stew of meats, sausages and vegetables.
  • Francesinha — Porto's glorious sandwich, smothered in cheese and spicy sauce.
  • Caldo verde — kale and chorizo soup, comforting and simple.
  • Bifana — the perfect snack: marinated pork in a soft roll.

The wines: far beyond port

Port wine is a dessert in itself — try an aged Tawny with something sweet or with cheese. But don't stop there: the full-bodied reds of the Alentejo and the Douro win international awards, the refreshing Vinho Verde from the northwest is perfect for summer, and the Bairrada makes remarkable sparkling wines. For the brave, a glass of Ginjinha (sour-cherry liqueur) or Moscatel de Setúbal closes the meal beautifully.

Where and how to taste it all

The best way to discover Portuguese cuisine is with someone who knows the right places, away from the tourist traps. A well-planned evening can combine a traditional dinner, fado and a wine tasting. Discover our Lisbon by Night tour, with dinner and a show included, or contact us for a tailor-made food itinerary.